It
felt familiar but fanciful driving through the vacation town of
Ogunquit, just minutes from our home. Day one of our “staycation plan”,
we packed up our car, with bikes and our bags, and in just 10 miles
(less than a gallon of gas, no TSA hassles) we were tourists in our
neighboring town. We passed brightly painted boutiques and cafes with a
new appreciation, admiring beautiful gardens spilling onto the sidewalks
along famous Shore Road on our way to the Cliff House - our desirable
destination for a few nights. The Cliff House is in Cape Neddick, in
neighboring York, Maine.
Within a half hour of leaving home, we were sitting by the vanishing
edge pool, which is perched on the Resort’s spectacular Bald Head Cliff.
With drink in hand, we watched lobster boats ply the Atlantic below the
dramatic rocky cliffs. Spa appointments had been arranged, nview
dinner reservations were made (all part of the Spa package). This was
easy, breezy.
While downtown Ogunquit and Perkins Cove had seemed absolutely bursting
with beach attired tourists, The Cliff House was removed from the crowds
and quiet. After some sun and a soak in the incredibly scenic outdoor
whirlpool, we returned to our spacious room in the Cliff Spa building,
which offered us a sunset, and distant views of Ogunquit Beach (other
rooms orient toward the cliffs and York).
The Cliff House’s formal dining room (business casual attire is
required) is the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Maine, and
certainly one of the most scenic. Our five course dinner was delicious,
the live piano from the Cliff Lounge drifted to our waterfront window
table. The Chef’s locally inspired creations of creamy pink lobster
bisque, halibut with blueberries, and Maine rock shrimp risotto were
served slowly as we watched the waves crash into the cliffs, which are
illuminated come nightfall.
We brought our bikes and started the next morning with a coastal ride to
Nubble Light in Cape Neddick. Shore Road is hilly and narrow in spots –
warning to bikers. A bountiful buffet breakfast back at the Cliff House
tasted all the better after touring the salt-aired shoreline.
A walk of the 70-acre grounds of The Cliff House Resort reveals several
lodges of different vintages, the Cliff Spa being the newest which
opened in 2002 to house 32 guest rooms, the extensive Spa and a 75-foot
indoor lap pool. The resort has been in The Weare family since 1872 when
train service started bringing summer guests from the City. A room with
3 meals a day was $6 a week per person, and the family formula was motto
was: “clean rooms, fine food, fresh air, personable hospitality, all in
an incomparable scenic location atop Bald Head Cliff.” Fourth generation
Kathryn Weare operates the Cliff House today with the same mantra, and
while the rates have multiplied (try $360/night), and guests now drive
Mercedes and Maseratis, the incredible views from every spot on the
property have not changed – whether you are in Cliff Spa, or the
connected Cliffscape, or the older buildings of Ledges and Clifftop
(rates are less in the older, but equally scenic buildings).
The trolley will take you the 3-miles to town for shopping, or drop you
at Perkin’s Cove to catch a tour boat or to walk the mile-long Marginal
Way. You should also ride to Ogunquit Beach (parking is tight prime
summer in this town – so the trolley or a bike makes tons of sense).
Being natives, we knew low tide was the time to walk the three miles of
wide, flat sandy beach all the way to famous Footbridge Beach, and back
to the sand bar where the Ogunquit River flows into the sea. We wished
we’d brought a boogie board or an inner tube to float along this fresh
water lazy raft ride, those that did were having a blast on this balmy
beach day.
A mid afternoon stop in Perkin’s Cove for a little boutique browsing and
a picnic was perfect. There are ice cream shops and seafood take-out
windows, as well as sit down restaurants - all waterfront, whatever
suits your mood.
We returned to the Cliff House in time for a dip in the dramatic
oceanside pool before our spa appointments. We donned our fluffy robes,
and waited in the serenely scented spa reception room. Choosing a
treatment from the six page menu was mind boggling, did I want a
seashell massage, an Atlantic antioxidant, or a blueberry body wrap?
Greg needed to be kneaded, he decided on the deep tissue massage.
Now I must admit to being a reluctant spa-go’er, not entirely
comfortable with poking, prodding and peeling. The Spa Director assured
me the Cliff House Signature Facial would be ideal. Right on she was –
it was ideal, enjoyable and downright decadent – as the aesthetician
dimmed the lights, wrapped me in warm towels and proceeded to massage my
face, neck and décolleté with aromatic tangerine and blueberry creams,
ending with a warm seashell massage. And my skin looked clear, and
bright like a berry on the vine in July. Okay, that may be a stretch –
but the spa personnel were pros, the Cliff Spa facility and all natural
products are top shelf and top priority at the Cliff House.
It was a perfect Maine day (being local we know the scale from perfect
to pathetic), from biking, to beaching, and being pampered. A seaside
dinner with candlelight overlooking the cliffs was all we required, and
sleeping to the sounds of the waves crashing against the shore.
The next morning, we worked out in the fitness room, which rivals a
first rate cruise ship with a wall of ocean view windows and top of the
line Nautilus equipment. Each treadmill has its own TV, and every work
out station imaginable awaits (no lines, no waiting) in the bright
spacious atrium.
A last leisurely breakfast overlooking the Atlantic Waters had us both
wanting to stay longer. In the distance we could see Boone Island, a
sunset cruise around the spooky secluded ledge would be entertaining, or
a sail aboard that schooner would be dreamy. But our mini getaway was
concluding. In 20 minutes we’d be home, but happy for our time hanging
out at The Cliff. Nice to know that just a short drive away, and again
we could find ourselves worlds away for a few days.
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