Since the Bourbon Street affair has no appeal to me, I decided to check it out this northern adaptation. The annual Louisiana Mardi Gras festival has earned a hedonistic reputation of attracting thousands of belligerent partiers, who crowd the French Quarters in pursuit of beads—which are rewarded for mischievous behavior. Perhaps Vermont would offer a more wholesome event than its southern original. The cold weather surely would alter one "Fat Tuesday" tradition.
It had been a particularly snowy winter, so I was keen on a trip to the winter wonderland of Vermont. If nothing else, it was a good excuse for a February weekend of skiing. Besides, the festival had already received accolades in its fifth year, voted one of the 10 Best Vermont Winter Events.
To kick off Mardi Gras, a Masquerade Ball is held on Friday night. This is an adult event geared toward weekend arrivals and locals alike. The local brew company, Magic Hat, sponsors the dance party held at Ground Zero nightclub. “In Vermont, Magic Hat is to beer what Ben & Jerry’s is to ice cream,” I was told.
The Ball included a headline reggae band, and was well attended by a surprising number of people in masks and costumes.
Saturday
morning, we had a few hours before the town’s afternoon festivities so
we chose the easy 20-minute drive to
Bolton Valley. Burlington is less
than a fifty-minute drive to several of the East’s finest ski
areas—Bolton Valley, Stowe, Smugglers’ Notch, and Sugarbush.
Even with perfect conditions and a fresh layer of powder, we were among only a handful of weekend skiers at Bolton. This unassuming family area is home to a straightforward layout, and some edgy terrain parks. Bolton made for a delightful morning of sliding surrounded by outstanding views of Lake Champlain, the snow-covered Green Mountains and the distant Adirondacks.
We
cruised scenic Interstate 89 back to Burlington in time for an
artfully presented and delicious lunch prepared by "students." The
reputed
New England Culinary Institute has made Burlington’s 25 Church
Street part of their campus and dining here is a special treat. The
student chefs create top end fare in an open kitchen. These
enthusiastic future chefs of America can test their new skills on me
anytime!
We finished our gourmet meal in time for some boutique browsing along the pedestrian zone Church Street. As we skipped in and out of trendy shops, the crowds began to form in anticipation of the main event, the Mardi Gras parade.
The
warmly dressed multitudes eagerly awaiting the floats spanned all age
categories. Leading the ruckus parade was the city’s mayor, in full
jester attire, flanked by his "bald for the day" staff, who were
poking fun at their hair-challenged political boss.
Three dozen lively floats passed us by, small potatoes compared to the New Orleans variety, but extremely entertaining and much more up close and personal. Some floats looked like they were thrown together over a six-pack, while others clearly involved more than a rummage through the attic.
The sea of colored beads tossed from each float meant that every kid scored a collection of the authentic necklaces. This was proof of the promised family atmosphere, no raunchy conduct required to earn beads. I caught a few strands myself, but was particularly excited about snatching some generously donated Lake Champlain Chocolate truffles and a delicious Moon Pie.
As
the animated parade wound its way to Church Street’s end, a Block
Party with live music started up. The chill of the afternoon winter
air did not keep the zealous Vermonters from dancing in the streets,
sipping Magic Hat beer, though many opted for steamy Green Mountain
coffee.
I enjoyed the parade and party so much; I decided to wear my beads skiing the following day. Stowe was the obvious choice, given its much-deserved reputation as “The Ski Capital of the East.” The nation’s top ski publications consistently rank Stowe #1 in the East. All morning, we alternated between the high-speed quad and the eight-passenger gondola, carving up the brochure quality snow on legendary trails like Gondolier and Perry Merrill.
We
had to ski Stowe’ famed Front Four trails—known throughout New England
as some of the steepest, most challenging terrain. National and
Liftline are certainly steep, but Goat and Starr are still more
precipitous and narrower. In fact, these paths are not accessible to
the grooming fleet, and certainly not recommended to any but the most
advanced skier.
At lunchtime we discovered another superior eatery, this one high atop Mt. Mansfield and reached only by gondola. It is located at the base of a sheer wall of granite, and aptly named The Cliff House. We selected from a gourmet menu of cheesy fondue, creative homemade soups, sandwiches and salads, and the alpine view is always on the appetizing menu.
As
a fortuitous end to our weekend, we were snowed-in Sunday night. And
what better place to be held captive than the postcard perfect town of
Stowe during a good ol’ fashion New England blizzard? We gleefully hid
away from the real world for an extra night at the classic and well
appointed Stowe
Mountain Lodge.
Skip New Orleans, head to Vermont for a new twist on Mardi Gras. You will grab plenty of beads, and get fresh tracks at Stowe.
