February 2002
Review- Big Squaw is not open for skiing currently
During the two and half hour drive from Portland to isolated
Greenville, we see only snowmobile trailers, no ski racks.
The
expansive Moosehead Lake is a centerpiece for winter fun seekers.
Snowmobilers, snowshoers, moose spotters and ice fisherman have
discovered this outdoor retreat, but not too many skiers.
We are finally greeted by indication of a ski area. “Ski the View,”
the vintage billboard reads at the base of Squaw’s narrow access road.
This is the only promotion for
Big Squaw Mountain Resort you are
likely to see, as they don’t have a marketing campaign, and certainly
not a web site.
The photocopied brochure and trail map states, “Maine’s Own Little
Gem.”
We
set out to explore this self-proclaimed jewel first by riding the
triple chair on the lower mountain. Here we ski the handful of
meandering intermediate trails, and delight in having the Saint John
trail all to ourselves. The soft, quiet natural snow underfoot is a
treat.
Squaw’s principal lift is the 1967 summit double, which climbs 1,750’
vertical in about 12 minutes. (See 2005 note
below concerning lift malfunction.) As we are scooped up by the quirky old
lift, I have a flashback of riding a chair just like this as a kid.
Flash-forward, I am seated next to my child, professing about skiing
in the good old days when I wore Rossi Stratos and a hat with a huge
pom-pom.
Along the ride, Moosehead Lake and mile-high Mt. Katahdin come in to
magnificent view. Now I “See the View” and can begin to appreciate the
genius behind the ski area slogan.
At
the top, there’s a rustic warming hut and aging signs pointing to a
choice of time-honored trails. Black diamond runs like Seboomok,
Piscataquis and Saint Croix offer exciting pitches from the summit
mixed in with twists and drop-offs for unpredictability along the way.
The lift line trail offers steeps, jumps, and cliffs – skiing the way
Mother Nature intended.
The exceptions to these challenging trails are the two and a half mile
East Branch trail and two-mile Penobscot, these more wide-open staples
have substantial snowmaking and daily grooming, making them popular
for cruising and incredible sightseeing.
32-year ski patrol veteran Sandy McFarland explained that Sel Hannah,
the legendary trail designer, laid out Squaw’s trail system, including
recently developed glades that were part of his original plans. “The
Penobscot Trail was mentioned in Sel Hannah’s obituary as his best
work,” said McFarland.
If Sunday River represents the so-called new school with high-speed
lifts and terrain parks, then Big Squaw is old school. Little has
changed since 1963, when Scott Paper began this mountain playground.
“Here at Squaw, we’re mired somewhere between 1968 and 1972,” says
McFarland.
Some of the lift towers are padded with mattresses shrink-wrapped at a
local Moosehead marina. There are no half pipes, but the entire
mountain plays like an adventure park with natural contours and
winding glades. Riders hand pack their own jumps and hits.
New at
Squaw
(an oxymoron) in
2002 were a few wild glade trails like West Branch and
Jacob’s Ladder. These natural paths warrant their double black status,
which are handwritten on the trail map and on mountain signs.
Beyond the unbelievable view and unaltered terrain, there is an
indomitable aura at this time-tested ski area. Kids brought up on
quads and white carpet boulevards would do well to ski the natural
snow conditions and ride the modest (did I mention long?) double
chair.
During one of our 15 ascents, my nine-year-old shared something that
had been troubling him. He would not have had the time to find the
words during a speedy detachable ride. So this is what they mean by
quality time, in a land where time stands almost still.
Big Squaw Mountain is humorously humble. There is neither resort
village nor mid-mountain eateries. The base lodge is pure 70’s,
hosting a rental shop, game room and bar. Lunch is a buffet table
lined with crock-pots of homemade soups and chili, plus the usual
fare.
“Who could ask for more?” reads the print material. At 50 cents for a
hot cocoa, I couldn’t think of anything. The prices are old-fashioned,
lift tickets are $20 midweek and $28 on weekends for adults, kids 4
and under ski free.
Squaw ski area owner, as of 1995, James Confalone of Miami car wash
fortunes, has never followed through with plans to upgrade the
on-mountain hotel or the lifts.
“Mr. Confolane had permits for a top of the mountain restaurant, and
plans for a new indoor heated pool and hot tubs in the Hotel,” said
Willie Charles, Hotel Manager at Big Squaw.
For now,
things remain rustic and in disrepair. That includes the
controversial name of Squaw itself. “No one wants to offend anyone,
it’s an historical name,” said McFarland. “As far as Mr. Confalone is
concerned, that discussion is over.” Good news, since the ski area is
on what appears to be a shoestring budget. Replacing thirty-year-old
signs, retyping the trail map and make new photocopies would be
pricey.
If you long for ultra-wide man-made corduroy, high- tech lifts, cushy
chairs, slopeside spas and boutiques, then Squaw is not your ticket.
If however, you want to get away from that scene and ski some truly
awesome classic New England terrain on natural snow that holds up all
day due to minimal skier traffic - head to Squaw.
Fulltime patroller E.J. Gerrier said, “Come here on a weekday and 30
people on the hill is a lot.”
On a February weekend, we parked within a stone’s throw of the base
lodge, skied two- mile-long trails without seeing another skier, and a
peak lift line was maybe eight people.
Among the hundred or so skiers we saw on the slopes, several were
patrollers out skiing together and with their families. The folks who
live and play here appreciate their homespun gem of a mountain. “In
the afternoon, when we’re doing patrol sweep and the sun lights up
Katahdin in the distance, it looks like Kilimanjaro,” says McFarland.
The Moosehead Lake Chamber of Commerce website proclaims, “As
Yellowstone is to Montana, Yosemite is to California and The Grand
Canyon is to Arizona, Moosehead Lake is to Maine.”
Leave the fancy ski outfit at home, but go ski this “retro” alpine
treasure above the shores of Moosehead Lake if it reopens. Big Squaw, with its 32
trails, a chairlift, and t-bar, can be reached at
207-695-1000; they may even answer the phone.
(Note: Squaw's
summit lift is in need of repair and not operating)
